Serbia is a surprisingly gentle place to navigate for even the most novice traveler.

The applause begins as natural, mismatched; a cheer here and there. It then synchronizes – slowing to a deliberate, on-beat applause that gradually speeds sup in perfect unison.

Pécs, a city of 145,000 in Hungary’s south-central Baranya County, is fascinating and complex. Besides being visibly stunning, it is culturally and politically vibrant – as a town with the country’s oldest university is wont to be.

One mode of transportation in Hungary continues to be my Everest, intimidating me at every turn.

Makó, a town of 22,000 in Hungary’s southeast, packs quite the cultural punch for a place its size. But I am going to focus on two things, the real stars of Makó: Architect Makovesz Imre, and the almighty onion.