Day Trip: Pécs
Pécs, a city of 145,000 in south-central Hungary, deserves so much more than a day trip. But its historic center is compact, walkable, and lovely – so you can accomplish quite a lot in 24-48 hours.
Besides being visually stunning, it is culturally and politically vibrant – as a town with the country’s oldest university is wont to be.
The city’s colorful history goes back to its Roman founding over 2,000 years ago. According to ethnographer and historian Raphael Patai, stone inscriptions reflecting the presence of a Jewish community were found in what is now Pécs as far back as during the Roman period. The city’s Early Christian Necropolis, which dates from the 4th century AD, can be visited today. And most visibly, the Ottoman occupation left a tremendous architectural imprint.
Széchenyi tér (square), Pécs, with the Mosque of Pasha Qasim in the background (via: Creative Commons)
Buckle up kids – it’s time to explore a real jewel in the Hungarian crown.
Layout & orientation
Located in the Carpathian Basin of Central Europe, Pécs sits in the center of Baranya County. Bordered by the Mecsek hills to the north and rolling plain to the south, it’s just over 219 km from the Croatian border, due south, and 265 km from Serbia to the southeast. Budapest is roughly 200 km to the north.
The city’s compact historic center is lovely and walkable, full of historical sites spanning the centuries alongside modern galleries and cafés.
An exhaustive list of places to see and eat would truly be a beast. What follows therefore is a small bite – certainly not all – of what you should seek out in Pécs.
Cella Septichora (Early Christian Necropolis)
Pécs, dubbed Sopianae during the Roman period, is home to a 1600-year-old decorated burial chamber. It consists of a mix of small family burial chambers and larger community sepulchral vaults, or cemetery buildings. Underground are the burial chambers where the deceased were placed; above, memorial chapels were erected. Parts of these are decorated with biblical scenes and early Christian symbols. For example, the Christogram – a symbol of Jesus consisting of the Greek X (khi) and P (rho) – is found among the imagery. The site was discovered in 1782 and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000.
The Early Christian Necropolis, a UNESCO World Heritage site (Photo via hungarikum.hu)
Pécs Cathedral and Szent István tér
Home to the Diocese of Pécs, the foundations of this cathedral were laid during the Roman period, around the 4th century. The current neo-Romanesque beauty was constructed between 1882 and 1891.
Pécs Cathedral (Photo: Julie Strickland)
The immense interior is home to an organ with over 6,000 pipes, a masterpiece from the renowned Angster Organ Factory in Pécs. (Pécs was famous for its advanced music culture in the Middle Ages, and the first organs appeared here by the 15th century.)
While the immensity of the space leading to the main alter can understandably overwhelm, be sure to take some time with the small details. I particularly loved the fish door handles and lion knockers, as well as the old wooden stairway leading up to the bell tower – well worth the climb for magnificent views of the city.
Lions guarding entry to Pécs Cathedral (Photo: Julie Strickland)
Outside the cathedral is lovely Szent István (St. Stephen) tér, a public square with water fountains, flowers, and green lawn. The Rose Garden is well worth a visit also – it is accessible to visitors through the gift shop at 10 Janus Pannonius Street.
The Mosque of Pasha Qasim, aka Candlemas Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
The most immediately identifiable view of downtown Pécs is the former Mosque of Pasha Qasim at the top of Széchenyi Square. One of the most significant pieces of Ottoman era heritage in Hungary, the building was constructed by Qasim the Victorious between 1543 and 1546. It was converted into a church after Habsburg-Hungarian troops retook the city in 1702. As the building was converted into a Catholic church in the 18th century, its minaret was taken down, leaving only the octagonal drum of the original structure remaining.
Today, it’s a fascinating cultural blend of East and West – complete with verses from the Bible and Quran on either side of the central pulpit.
The Zsolnay Cultural Quarter
Pécs is synonymous with Zsolnay, the family who began manufacturing their eponymous porcelain in 1853. Famed for its quality and uniqueness, the Zsolnay Porcelánmanufaktúra continues to manufacture porcelain, tiles, and stoneware today.
Fisher Woman - an Art Nouveau porcelain piece from Zsolnay, retailing for €2,450 (Photo via zsolnay.hu)
The Cultural Quarter is a fully restored 5-hectacre area of land that surrounds the manufactory. It contains 88 public Zsolnay statues, unique exhibitions exploring the history of the business, parks and promenades, and the Zsolnay Mausoleum, guarded by 42 lions. It’s also full of cafes, craft shops, and high-end restaurants.
Zsolnay Cultural Quarter (via zsolnay.hu)
Pécs Synagogue
The Synagogue of Pécs is located south of Széchenyi Square, steps from the University of Pécs. The synagogue was designed by architects Frigyes Feszl, Károly Gerster, and Lipót Kauser, and consecrated in 1869 by the Jewish Neolog community, the liberal and modernist communal organization more inclined toward integration into Hungarian society since the Era of Emancipation in the 19th century.
The building is topped by onion domes – a feature of many Neolog synagogues – and its dark oak seating is the same material from which it was originally built. The brilliant ceilings showcase intricate stencil work, and the building still contains its original Angster organ.
The Synagogue of Pécs (Photo: Julie Strickland)
In the mechitza upstairs, a historical exhibit details the history of the synagogue through the lives of its congregants via family photos, letters, and post cards (in Hungarian).
What to eat
Local Specialties
I live near Szeged, a city in Csongrád-Csanád County on the Tisza River, famous for its fish stew called halászlé. Pécs is likewise known for its version of halászlé – and for controversially (in the eyes of the Szegedi, at least) adding pasta to the dish.
Pécsi halászlé (via www.pecsma.hu)
I don’t dare express in print a vote for or against either version. But if you want to make your own judgment you can try the Pécs version at Piros Talicska Csárda, Gulyás 2 Étterem, or Blöff Bisztro.
Be sure to check with the restaurant first however, as sometimes even this staple local dish can be out of seasonal rotation.
Vegan & Vegetarian Options
Pécs is a vegetarian and vegan friendly destination, with high-quality offerings that don’t skimp on flavor or creativity. My favorite was LYR Specialty Coffee and Food, located in the center just off Széchenyi tér, open 10am-8pm most days. The menu changes frequently and always offers bowls, burgers, wraps, and salad plates – as well as excellent coffee.
For breakfast and lunch, Reggeli is also delicious (though it has fewer vegan options). Its location in a beautiful building on the corner of Király and Szent Mór streets turns into a bar and nightclub at night.
Exterior of Reggeli. In nice weather there are tables outside - a prime people-watching spot. (Photo: Julie Strickland)
Wine
The rolling hills around Pécs tap into two wine making zones: Szigevar to Mecsek in the north and Keszu to the Danube in the South. If you want to enjoy that richness without having to venture outside the city, check out WunderBar – a cozy space tucked off Király utca that will do tastings from different local vineyards. (We did a tasting from the Lisicza Borház, which I was very happy to run into at the Szegedi Borfesztivál a few weeks later!)
For more wine tasting offerings in Pécs and beyond, check out https://borindex.hu/en.
Getting there
As a center of business and education, Pécs is well served by trains and buses. From Budapest, there are usually eight direct trains daily leaving from either Keleti in Pest or Kelenföld in Buda. The journey takes ~3 hours, and these trains usually do not have a café car, so bring snacks.